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Jack Martin

Hair Color Expert operating from the West Coast who focuses on platinum tones. He works with Jane Fonda and Andie MacDowell.

What affordable item can't you live without?

My top pick is a microfibre towel, or even a gentle tee to dry your hair. Most people don’t realise how much harm a regular bath towel can do, especially to silver or chemically treated hair. This minor adjustment can really reduce frizz and breakage. A second budget-friendly essential is a broad-toothed comb, to use in the shower. It shields your locks while removing knots and helps maintain the integrity of the hair shafts, especially after lightening.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A top-tier thermal appliance – made with advanced materials, with precise heat settings. Lightened strands can yellow or burn easily without the correct device.

What style or process should you always avoid?

At-home lightening. Online tutorials can be misleading, but the truth is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. I’ve seen people severely damage their locks, snap their strands or end up with bands of colour that are nearly impossible to correct. I would also avoid keratin or permanent straightening treatments on bleached or silver hair. Such treatments are often overly harsh for delicate locks and can cause long-term damage or undesired tones.

Which typical blunder stands out?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their hair type or colour. Certain clients overapply violet-based cleansers until their blonde or grey strands looks drab and lacking shine. Others rely too much on strengthening conditioners and end up with rigid, fragile strands. A further common mistake is heat styling without protection. If you’re using styling appliances without a heat protectant, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I often suggest scalp formulas with active ingredients to stimulate circulation and support follicle health. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps clear out buildup and allows solutions to be more efficient. Supplements such as Nutrafol or Viviscal Pro have also shown positive outcomes. They enhance overall health for hair benefits by addressing hormonal imbalances, tension and dietary insufficiencies.

For people looking for something more advanced, PRP therapy – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be successful. However, I consistently recommend consulting a skin or hair specialist initially. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than seeking quick fixes.

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Anabel Kingsley

Scalp and Hair Scientist and brand president of Philip Kingsley clinics and product ranges for hair loss.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

My trims are every couple of months, but will remove split ends personally bi-weekly to keep my ends healthy, and have highlights done every eight weeks.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Building fibers are remarkably effective if you have areas of scalp visibility. These particles bond to your existing hair, and it comes in a range of colors, making it almost invisible. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had a lot of hair fall – and also presently during some considerable hair loss after having a severe illness recently. Because locks are secondary, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your diet is lacking, so I would also recommend a healthy, varied eating plan.

What justifies a higher investment?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an over-the-counter product is fine, but for FPHL you really do need clinical interventions to see the most effective improvements. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It doesn’t work. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A low concentration like 2% is insufficient to do much for male pattern hair loss, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can alter thyroid level measurements.

Which error is most frequent?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the real aim of shampooing your hair is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s bad for their hair, when in fact the opposite is true – particularly with flaky scalp, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. If oils are left on your scalp, they break down and become inflammatory.

Unfortunately, what your scalp needs and what your hair likes don’t always align, so it’s a delicate equilibrium. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it is unlikely to cause damage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It's backed by strong research and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will improve spontaneously. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus